really good madeleines
If you've ever been seduced by a madeleine, you know that the little cookie-esque cake (or is it a cake-esque cookie?) is a tender, buttery pastry that pairs particularly well with a hot beverage. We know that M. Proust waxed poetic about its ethereal qualities, but he didn't leave anyone a recipe. Funnily, people have been chasing the Proustian madeleine for quite some time. I'm not claiming to have found "the" recipe. My only claim is to have added some tweaks to classic madeleine recipes that really jack up the flavor. By using roasted almonds and browned butter, this recipe goes for the flavor jugular -- producing aromas of caramel and spices that aren't in the recipe. If you don't have a madeleine pan, you can spoon the batter out on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and bake it that way -- not quite madeleines, but tasty nonetheless.
1/3 cup whole roasted almonds*, ground fine
3 TB cake flour
3 TB all purpose flour
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1/4 c sugar
1/8 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp almond extract
5 TB butter, browned and cooled**
* you can either buy roasted, unsalted almonds or roast your own in a 375 F for 10 minutes and allow to cool before grinding.
** heat butter in a saucepan over low heat until it begins to become very aromatic and you notice it changing color to a medium-brown -- dare to go as far into brown as you want, but be careful not to go too far...you'll end up with black butter!
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Combine the ground almonds and flours in a small bowl and set aside.
With a hand mixer or stand mixer, whip eggs and yolks for 3-5 minutes, until they become very pale and begin to thicken. Add the sugar, salt, and extracts and beat for 3-5 minutes more -- the eggs should begin to form "ribbons" when you allow some to fall from the beaters back into the batter.
Gently fold the flour mixture into the eggs and follow that with the browned butter, making sure everything is incorporated but be gentle -- don't go any further than necessary.
Spoon the batter into a prepared madeleine pan (use baking spray or butter then flour) and bake for 10 minutes. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes and then gently lift each out of the pan. Enjoy with some tea or -- my favorite -- with a double shot of espresso.
Makes 12 madeleines.
2 comments:
Dominic - It is very easy to get lost in buttery goodness of madeleines. They are the quintessential late 19th century Parisian cookie. Proust probably didn't have a particularly special recipe for them, but they left an indelible impression on him as they were ingested while at his glamorous grandmother's house along with tisane (hot water steeped with herbs). I've seen various versions, including those made with rose water and with a coriander cordial (see Susan's blog: The Well-Seasoned Cook). Browned butter is perfectly applied here, for not too many other flavors get in the way - I think Kate Zuckerman makes madeleines in a similar manner. A wonderful job also, for one can never go wrong with almonds - at least in my book.
I am inspired to make Madeleines.
I like your blog.
Post a Comment